Saturday, May 1, 2010

Sunburn and Speculoos

The past two weeks of spring weather have left me with two things. Some unfortunately geometric tan lines (more correctly burn stripes) and a renewed love for ice cream. I was the subject of a pop up foodie pop quiz by a new friend this week – favourite colour (green), favourite food (cheese) and favourite dessert (cheese). Easy.

I was swiftly prompted that in fact it was not so easy given the plethora of cheese varieties in France alone (between which I retorted I refuse to discriminate my love) and politely requested to reconsider my response. Whilst deep in self contemplation I proposed the same to my friend. His response, blue (for boys, very mature), all food (so obvious) and sweet cucumber and aloe vera coriander mousse and mozzarella ice cream. Damn you, I thought. That’s a great answer.

I love boutique ice cream flavours, odd and niche so you know the batch is beautifully homemade and the product of a moment of odd thought by and eccentric taste bud. Pizza East in London (http://www.pizzaeast.com/) routinely changes its ice cream selection as the chefs try out new flavours and ideas. Creme Fraiche and brown sugar got me every time.

Berthillion - Worth waiting for...just not that long.

It must be something about brown sugar because the Speculoos ice-cream at Amarino (http://www.amorino.com/fr/) is always in my cup (or cone if I’m feeling brave)...or even better pressed between two crisp and toasted brioche halves in their delicious focaccinnas. I know the concept is wrong (in a loose five pounds for spring kind of way), but to be honest, I don’t care.

It is about at this point that I’m meant to rave about the artisan craftsmanship of Berthillion ice cream (http://www.berthillon.fr/) but waiting 30 minutes in a touristy crowd (look at me after living here only a few month) on a mini thoroughfare on Isle Saint Louis gives me a little ice cream head ache. I’m always content when one of the many many restaurants in Paris which serves Berthillion does just that, but I’m impatient when it comes to satisfying an ice cream desire.

Gelati from Grom

My current favourite gelateria is Grom (81 Rue de Seine, Paris 75006, http://www.grom.it/ita/). The ice cream is exceptional and like many gelati makers no additives or emulsifiers are used in the products. Their flavours alter seasonally (to some extent) and I enjoy their store presentation with each flavour hidden in a deep metallic ice cream cave. The Tiramisu (which I always combine with their extreme chocolate and then their nougat flavours) is seriously good. It’s creamy, but has the slightly icy edge which I prefer to a heavy overly creamed mixture.

Well the owners of Grom are certainly happy about their gelati too

If the guys who own and run what is now this huge multinational franchise didn’t make such great gelati, I’m not sure I’d forgive them for their proposition that seeing a child smiling while eating a Grom’s gelato is enough to make their hard work worthwhile (uurgggh, I know). I guess, while I’m smiling too I can forgive the cheese.

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